These are pictures I have taken of a Four Cell hydrogen electrolyzer that I built and installed on a buddy of mines 1997 Ford Escort. These were taken with my cell phone so are not that good.
I explain how I built this cell if you are interested in building one.
I have videos of it running for the first time.
Table I worked on where I could sit down and work!
Cell Base with plates
Side Shell Alignment
View of Inside
Mounted on Car
Stainless plates were made from 316L grade and sanded, (304 grade) can be used.
There size was 5 inches long and 3 inches wide with a lip of 1/2 inch bent in a bench vise.
I used a 4 inch grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the steel with. Get the cutoff wheels from a welding supply. This is a must as it is very hard.
Holes of 3/16 were drilled in the lip at 2 inches apart. Find the center and measure out 1 inch to find the place to drill.
Space at 3/16 with a piece of plexi-glass while tightening the bolts. Build the bottom and the sides separate as shown here.
Then assemble them with the glue and let sit overnight.
3/16 plexi-glass was bought from Home Depot. You will need 2 sides, a bottom and top, and 2 ends plus 3 dividers. Dividers have the bottom corners cut off about 1/4 inch. These are called mouse holes and allow the electrolyte to seek a level equal in all cells. It is important when gluing up not to plug these holes. The top of the dividers have 3×3/8 inch holes drilled at 1/4 inch down from the top and centered equally. These let the gas go to the one outlet.
Sides are 7 inches tall and 9 inches long. Space between cells is 2 inches. Bottom and top are 4 inches wide by 9 inches long. Dividers and end walls are 4 inches wide by 6 5/8 inches tall. I used Weld-on number 16 glue I bought from a local sign maker. If you have someone who makes signs in your area, try to talk with them about purchasing some glue off them. You can also buy it online. This is a thick glue for plexi-glass and will fill small gaps if you make a small mistake in cutting.
There are many ways to apply this glue but if you can try an empty mustard bottle, or get a bottle of chalk dust from a building supply, Lowe’s, Home Depot, ETC., and empty out the chalk and clean the bottle. Take a needle or straight pin and heat it and puncture the top, leave it in until cool and remove. Makes a very fine bead.
You can also find and purchase the squeeze type restaurant ketchup bottles to use.
I use an empty mustard bottle to apply mine. It will make a perfect bead. If you cut your plexi-glass on a table saw, I have found out that if you run it through slow it will have a tendency to melt. Use a sharp blade and feed it fairly fast for a perfect cut.
For any gaps when assembling put the tip of the glue applicator straight in and fill with a small bead of glue. Then run a bead down the side at the joint. Let dry then run a bead down the opposite side for a very strong joint.
The connections of the cells on the bottom are sealed with regular bathroom latex silicone caulking.
Use stainless steel machine screws 8×32 by 3/4 inch long and standard (not stainless) flat washers, (these are used on the outside only) lock washers and nuts.
Put the screws through from the inside and seal under the plates with caulking.
Cut plates from stainless about 1/2 inch wide by 2 inches long and drill these with holes to match your cell screw connections.
See my poor illustration below this post. Seal with caulk install plate, flat washer, lock washer and nut.
Tighten snugly till caulking sets up. (Over night) Then re-tighten very securely.
The last plate on each end needs a plate cut to span both screws with a tab on it that can be drilled for an electrical connection.
Drilling your holes in the plexi-glass requires you to support it very well and don’t rush the drill bit.
Drill your fill hole and gas hole in the top center with a size of your choice. Mine were 1/4 inch pipe.
I had a 1/4 inch pipe tap that I ran threads with and used Teflon tape on my fittings.
Drill a hole top and bottom on one side or end for a level tube if desired.
Drill a hole at the bottom on one end or side for a drain if desired.
After assembly let it set up for 24 hours before adding electrolyte. Use sodium hydroxide for your electrolyte solution. This is best by far.
I mixed 6 tablespoons into 1 gallon of water for my mixture to pull about 15-20 amps when warmed up.
I also ran it at 5 amps for 2 days and then increased it to 10 amps for 4 days to break the stainless plates in.
Keep the water solution changed out if it gets nasty.
If you have questions I may be able to answer, leave a comment and I will try to give you an answer. No spam as I will delete it.
This post was written by Michael on October 6, 2008