Building A Homemade Hydrogen Generator

These are pictures I have taken of a Four Cell hydrogen electrolyzer that I built and installed on a buddy of mines 1997 Ford Escort. These were taken with my cell phone so are not that good.
I explain how I built this cell if you are interested in building one.
I have videos of it running for the first time.

4 Cell Running

Table I worked on where I could sit down and work!


Work Table

Work Table


Cell Base with plates

Base Plate


Bottom View

Bottom View


Side Shell Alignment

Lineup


View of Inside

Inside View


Brackets

Brackets


Mounted on Car

Ford Escort


Bumper Installed

Ford Escort


Intake Connection

Air Cleaner


Maf Testing

Maf


Stainless plates were made from 316L grade and sanded, (304 grade) can be used.
There size was 5 inches long and 3 inches wide with a lip of 1/2 inch bent in a bench vise.

I used a 4 inch grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the steel with. Get the cutoff wheels from a welding supply. This is a must as it is very hard.
Holes of 3/16 were drilled in the lip at 2 inches apart. Find the center and measure out 1 inch to find the place to drill.
Space at 3/16 with a piece of plexi-glass while tightening the bolts. Build the bottom and the sides separate as shown here.
Then assemble them with the glue and let sit overnight.

3/16 plexi-glass was bought from Home Depot. You will need 2 sides, a bottom and top, and 2 ends plus 3 dividers. Dividers have the bottom corners cut off about 1/4 inch. These are called mouse holes and allow the electrolyte to seek a level equal in all cells. It is important when gluing up not to plug these holes. The top of the dividers have 3×3/8 inch holes drilled at 1/4 inch down from the top and centered equally. These let the gas go to the one outlet.

Sides are 7 inches tall and 9 inches long. Space between cells is 2 inches. Bottom and top are 4 inches wide by 9 inches long. Dividers and end walls are 4 inches wide by 6 5/8 inches tall. I used Weld-on number 16 glue I bought from a local sign maker. If you have someone who makes signs in your area, try to talk with them about purchasing some glue off them. You can also buy it online. This is a thick glue for plexi-glass and will fill small gaps if you make a small mistake in cutting. 8-O

There are many ways to apply this glue but if you can try an empty mustard bottle, or get a bottle of chalk dust from a building supply, Lowe’s, Home Depot, ETC., and empty out the chalk and clean the bottle. Take a needle or straight pin and heat it and puncture the top, leave it in until cool and remove. Makes a very fine bead.

You can also find and purchase the squeeze type restaurant ketchup bottles to use.

I use an empty mustard bottle to apply mine. It will make a perfect bead. If you cut your plexi-glass on a table saw, I have found out that if you run it through slow it will have a tendency to melt. Use a sharp blade and feed it fairly fast for a perfect cut.
For any gaps when assembling put the tip of the glue applicator straight in and fill with a small bead of glue. Then run a bead down the side at the joint. Let dry then run a bead down the opposite side for a very strong joint.

The connections of the cells on the bottom are sealed with regular bathroom latex silicone caulking.
Use stainless steel machine screws 8×32 by 3/4 inch long and standard (not stainless) flat washers, (these are used on the outside only) lock washers and nuts.
Put the screws through from the inside and seal under the plates with caulking.
Cut plates from stainless about 1/2 inch wide by 2 inches long and drill these with holes to match your cell screw connections.
See my poor illustration below this post. Seal with caulk install plate, flat washer, lock washer and nut.
Tighten snugly till caulking sets up. (Over night) Then re-tighten very securely.
The last plate on each end needs a plate cut to span both screws with a tab on it that can be drilled for an electrical connection.
Drilling your holes in the plexi-glass requires you to support it very well and don’t rush the drill bit.
Drill your fill hole and gas hole in the top center with a size of your choice. Mine were 1/4 inch pipe.
I had a 1/4 inch pipe tap that I ran threads with and used Teflon tape on my fittings.
Drill a hole top and bottom on one side or end for a level tube if desired.
Drill a hole at the bottom on one end or side for a drain if desired.

After assembly let it set up for 24 hours before adding electrolyte. Use sodium hydroxide for your electrolyte solution. This is best by far.
I mixed 6 tablespoons into 1 gallon of water for my mixture to pull about 15-20 amps when warmed up.
I also ran it at 5 amps for 2 days and then increased it to 10 amps for 4 days to break the stainless plates in.
Keep the water solution changed out if it gets nasty.
If you have questions I may be able to answer, leave a comment and I will try to give you an answer. No spam as I will delete it.

Connections on Bottom of cell.

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This post was written by Michael on October 6, 2008

18 Comments so far

  1. admin November 1, 2011 12:01 pm

    Have you built one and tried it? I have and they do work on my buddies Ford Pinto.

  2. lee October 31, 2011 7:36 pm

    none of these things work

  3. Don Parson September 30, 2011 3:35 am

    Very interesting. Thanks for posting your endeavors. I would like to know if you have detailed plans available. Don

  4. admin June 4, 2010 11:31 am

    This is most likely happening because of the moisture coming in from his cell. I would bet he is having to add more fluid to his cell than a person normally would.
    This is because the cell has a high vacuum on it and is actually losing it’s water content into the intake.

  5. cristian andres May 29, 2010 8:33 pm

    Hi I have a question i was researching on the net and someone commented k HHO gas from one years after he was corrocion in the IAC and the multiple air k you know about the corrocion that can cause this type of gas … Thank you.

    http://gassaver.panamacentric.com/

  6. Anonymous June 23, 2009 6:06 am

    hook your generator to a intake port below the carb, if so equipt, or as close to center of intake manifold on a fuel injected engine. be sure to run a one way valve in the line between the scrubber and your engine incase the engine backfires. I have mine hooked to a 1984 chev 350, so I have no computer, or oxygen senser to compensate for

  7. Michael June 12, 2009 6:15 pm

    Adding to the gas/air mixture after leaning the mixture out.

  8. Michael June 12, 2009 6:12 pm

    I install the line behind the air cleaner in the intake line. I normally drill a hole and use a bulkhead fitting, then install the fitting for the line and connect it to there. I tried putting it in the line from the PCV valve but that did not work out well.

  9. Steve June 9, 2009 3:51 pm

    Mike,
    Where do you input the Hydrogen line into the car? I have a 94 Toyota 4Runner and can’t figure where to connect the line from my generator.
    Steve

  10. ponytail June 8, 2009 8:18 pm

    I built a 7 plate generator and I use distiled water and add baking soda, small ammounts at a time, to adjust my amp draw. if you keep it under 7 amps there is no heating problem and your not vaporizing the water in your generator. my plates are 4″x10″ and I run them in a gallon of water.

  11. Michael May 6, 2009 6:23 pm

    There is a circuit on this site that is a simple one. I have used it to power my cells with. You must first adjust the electrolyte for the maximum amount of amps you can pull on your cell and then use the pwm to cut the amps back to keep the cell from running to hot. It is on the downloads page and is a simple pwm.
    Mike

  12. Jon February 17, 2009 10:35 am

    are you using this to “sweeten” your the gasoline/air mix, or running off of pure hydrogen/oxegen?

  13. Michael December 28, 2008 4:23 pm

    I Built the simple pulse width modulator from the plans on this site and use that to control the current going to the cell.
    You can find it here. http://www.hydrogenfuelcell.dandmcollectibles.com/fuel-savers/simple-pulse-width-modulator/
    It has a 50k ohm potentiometer that you set for the amount of current you want to go to the cell.
    You may also adjust the concentration of lye in the water to control the current.

  14. Dhawal Leuva December 25, 2008 8:54 am

    Good work, I am having problem with the kind of power supply for the cells, I don’t undestand how to supply specific amount of current to the cells as you have mentioned of supplying 5 amps and then 10 amps. I have asked all possible electronic shops for a current controller but they say they donot know of such instrument. Is it that you control the amps by specific amount of electrolyt or have an instrument for that? If you have a circuit for such instrument then please share it with me. I have some great ideas for such generator, but my ack of knowledge of power supply system is preventing me from making my hydrogen generator. By the way I am from India.
    Thanking you in advance.

  15. christopher vivar December 18, 2008 5:29 pm

    we currently making hydrogen cell using 6 plate or 3plates combination, but we are having problem with the wire….they heat up after a certain amount of time…is it normal?

  16. Michael November 16, 2008 12:12 am

    Hey Brett,
    I experimented with 4 inch pvc but didn’t get the production I was looking for. I may re-visit that type soon as I have some other ideas. Mine ran hot but that was because they didn’t have enough water volume. And no pwm to drive them. Glad yours are doing well for you.
    Mike

  17. Brett November 15, 2008 4:54 pm

    I made a six cell elecrolyzer out of a six inch wide plastic drain pipe with screw on endcaps with o-rings the two outside cells are made differently with long tabs, these are bought down to the bottom and screws are put through for connections. all six plates are held together with double sided tape and then drilled through and all of them and tied together with a cable ties through the holes in each corner. It dosent short out and works well makes a fair ammount of gas, drawrs about 20 amps and makes a difference to the cars performance and economy it costs about 40 dollars to make no glue not much cutting and can be made in an afternnon. You will need a high current relay and magnet and reed switch on the throttle cable to activate it when driving the car.

    make it you wont look back

    Regards
    Brett

  18. free online games October 20, 2008 3:03 pm

    thats excellent to see a Four Cell hydrogen electrolyzer built in such a fshion , really you need some good sponsors to develop it .

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