I was surfing the Internet last evening I happened upon this Efie. It seems to be a variation of the Eagle Research Efie. If your transformer is like the one listed then it should work as advertised. If not you will need to tune it by varying some components. If you are not knowledgeable of electronics then get someone to help you. These are not that hard to build and tune, or adjust. Parts list and schematics can be downloaded as a zip or separate files. Look at the bottom of this page.
Parts list:
R1 = 107K
R2,R4 = 1K
R3 = 15K
R5 = 18K
R6 = 500 ohm (Optional)
P1 = 200K, 20-turn trimmer pot.
C1 = 0.33uF
C2 = 0.047 to 20uF
C3 = 470uF, 35V, electrolytic
C4 = 0.61nF
C5 = 8.8nF
IC1 = 7812 volt regulator, TO-220, no coolrib required
IC2 = 555 Timer IC, 8-pin dip
D1 = 1N400x, general purpose diode. Any in the series will do (1N4001-1N4007)
BR1 = Bridge Rectifier, 100/5A, or make from 4 1N4004 diodes (see insert)
T1 = T50110, Rhombus Industries
Led = 1 green, 1 red. (Optional)
Instructions: By builder/designer,
Connection Scheme How to install the EFIE and set it up:
The wire colors and wire numbers are compatible with the ones specified by Eagle-Research. I decided to implement those colors and not confuse a possible builder with all sorts of different colors. So, here are the official colors, as used by Eagle-Research:
Wire #1, to ground, black
Wire #2, to O2 sensor, green
Wire #3, to car computer, white
Wire #4, to ignition positive, red
# The black wire from the EFIE goes to vehicle ground or chassis also called ‘negative‘. Ensure that the EFIE is grounded very well. You can connect the black wire anywhere onto the chassis. Just make sure it is negative. To check, put a multimeter in the ‘continuity’ or ‘ohms’ setting and measure between the spot you have selected and the negative at the battery side and make sure it reads about 0-2 ohms or the continuity buzzer is going. If you measure ‘ohms’, the reading you get is probably the resistance from probes. Perfectly normal. If you have that you have a good, solid ground and can connect the black wire.
# Connect the red wire to an ignition switched power source (positive), so that the EFIE will shut off when you shut off the ignition key, usually the fuse-box has spare terminals for this sort of thing. Or tap into any power wire that shuts off when the ignition key is turned off. The radio positive is one of them connections.
# The White and Green wires go to the oxygen sensor output wire down near the oxygen sensor itself.
# Connect the White wire from the EFIE to the wire leading to the vehicle’s ECU or vehicle’s computer (used to go to the oxygen sensor before you cut it).
# Connect the Green wire from the EFIE to the wire leading from the oxygen sensor itself.
Fine-tuning the EFIE:
The trimpot P1 is a 20-turn type trimmer potentiometer. Set it approximately to the center position, e.i. 10 turns. You can measure that the EFIE is working by checking that you have a voltage between the Green and White wires. Set the initial voltage with the trimmer pot to about 350 millivolts when the ignition is ‘ON’ but the engine NOT running. Then adjust the voltage (turn the trimmer clockwise (lean) or counterclockwise (rich) increasing richness toward normal as you see fit. Lean-up the engine (by turning the trimpot clockwise) until you observe power loss of the engine, then richen it up again until you get the power back. Warm up the engine and go for a test drive.
Eagle-Research recommend 25 millivolt increments until you’re happy with your settings. I agree with that.
Engine Problems–how to fix:
When you are fine-tuning the EFIE, it is possible you may or may not encounter the following problems:
# "Check Engine" light (usually amber) comes on.
It means you over-adjusted to ‘lean’ a bit. Don’t worry about it. Just turn down the EFIE a bit and reset your car’s computer (required). You can do that two ways. First, switch off the engine, then turn the ignition ‘ON’ only, without the engine running. Keep it in this posistion for up to 20 minutes or when the light goes off all by itself. Then start the car as usual. If that doesn’t do the trick you have to do a ‘cold-reset’ by disconnecting the negative battery cable (with the engine switched off) for a couple minutes. Then reconnect it again the light will be off. The car computer will not be listening to the oxygen sensor when the computer is in ‘limp’ caused by the amber ‘Check Engine‘ light. The fuel mixture will be richer when that light is on, just try to remember that fact.
# "Theft System" light (red) comes on.
If the light is on solid, no big deal. There are many causes for this light to come on. Unfortunately none of them have to do with ‘theft’ in most cases. Any faulty micro-switch, like the one on your fuel-door for the gas tank, will most likely trigger this light. If the light is flashing it means starting the engine is prevented. You can crank the car but the engine is prevented from ‘running’. Again, turn the EFIE down a bit and turn the ignition key to ‘ON’ (don’t try to start) and leave it on until the light goes off, probably after 15 to 20 minutes. Then turn the ignition to ‘off’ first before you start the car. I personally find this feature a real pain-in-the-behind.
Your vehicle’s computer will ‘learn’ by itself the new settings. Just give it time to do so. Some vehicle computers may take as much as a couple hours to completely adjust, so adjusting the EFIE may take place over several days. In the end you will be a happy camper!
For Your Information:
The EFIE will not void your vehicle’s warranty. It is against federal law for car manufacturers to void warranty because the customer installed a after-market device.
Also, a dealership or manufacturer cannot put blame on an after-market device simply for that reason. It is the manufacturer who has to prove that the after-market device is cause of the problem. Naturally, the vehicle’s warranty does not cover the after-market device in any way or form.
Vehicles with more than one oxygen sensor need an EFIE on each oxygen sensor.
When you are adjusting more than one EFIE device, adjust them all to the same voltage and then experiment with changing the individual units for the highest effiency.
You only have to adjust the EFIE once. The EFIE is fully automatice and need no further adjustments if everything stays the same. If there is a change in or to the fuel system, only then a re-adjustment is required.
hhoefie Schematic
hhoefie hookup
All Files in a zip file for download.
Related posts:
- Build Your Own EFIE
- Build Your Own Oxygen Sensor Simulator or EFIE
- Oxygen Sensor Basics and the EFIE
- Fuel Injected Vehicles
- How Fuel Savers work
Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.
Stumble it!
Posted under Efie
This post was written by Michael on November 21, 2008
